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What kind of headset do I have?
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A threaded headset gets its name from the threaded steerer tube at the top of a fork. The steerer tube is attached to the inside head tube on a frame with an adjustable race. A threaded headset can be identified easily by the quill-type stem that fits inside the steerer tube. This article will discuss repairs and adjustments of a threaded headset.
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When do I need to adjust or replace my threaded headset?
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There are several signs an adjustment of your threaded headset is in order. If you clamp the front brake, rock the bike back and forth, and find there is back-and-forth play between the frame and fork, your headset is too loose. Another simple adjustment is required if the wheel and handlebars resist turning. This can be diagnosed by lifting the front wheel off the ground. The bars and wheel should generally fall to one side or the other without your influence. If they are excessively stiff, your headset may be too tight.
If you find that steering your bike is difficult because the steerer wants to stick in one place (usually dead center), a more serious problem could be present. This tendency to stick in one place is called “indexing”; it occurs over time from the pressure placed on the ball bearings inside the headset. Eventually, continuous use causes the bearings to “pit” dents into the bearing cup and resist the free movement for which they were designed. Indexing usually means it’s time to replace the headset, but a temporary solution is also available.
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- Allen Wrenches
- Large Spanner Wrench
- Large Cone Wrench (usually 36mm)
- Screwdriver
- Rubber Mallet
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What do I do if my threaded headset is too loose?
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A loose threaded headset can be identified by the back-and-forth play that is present if you clamp the front brake and rock the bike back and forth. Fixing a loose threaded headset is simple.
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Identify the two adjustable component on your threaded headset: the locknut (the uppermost nut), and the bearing cup (the cup with a hexagonal interface just above the head tube).
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Slightly loosen the locknut. If the bearing cup moves when you attempt to loosen the locknut, keep it stationary with another wrench.
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Tighten the bearing cup until the play in the fork is eliminated. Try not to go overboard.
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Hold the bearing cup in place while tightening the locknut.
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Sometimes over-tightening the locknut on your threaded headset will cause the bearing cup to further tighten. Holding the bearing cup still with another wrench will fix this problem, but it is not necessary to put a lot of muscle into tightening the locknut.
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What if my headset is too tight?
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A headset that is too tight is indicated by reluctance of the handlebars and front wheel to turn by gravity alone. Adjusting a tight headset is a simple procedure – just about the opposite of fixing a loose headset.
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Identify the two adjustable parts on your threaded headset: the locknut (the uppermost nut), and the bearing cup (the cup with a hexagonal interface just above the head tube).
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Slightly loosen the locknut. If the bearing cup moves when you attempt to loosen the locknut, keep it stationary with another wrench.
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Loosen the bearing cup in very small increments until the bars turn freely. The optimum setting is as tight as possible without hindering movement.
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Hold the bearing cup in place with another wrench. This step is essential for this adjustment.
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What if my headset is indexed?
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An indexed headset is characterized by the steerer’s tendency to “click” into certain spots. More often than not, the preferred resting place for an indexed headset will be dead center. If your headset is indexed, it usually means that it’s time to replace the bearings inside, the crown race, the upper bearing race, or all three. Because replacing headset cups and races is an extremely rare necessity, the average bicycle enthusiast has no reason to purchase the specialized headset press used in replacing headsets. You will save money by simply visiting your friendly local bike shop.
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A simple, temporary solution is to just loosen the headset and ride until you can afford a new headset or trip to the local bike shop. To loosen your threaded headset, follow the instructions above under “What if My Headset is Too Tight?”. Make sure not to loosen the headset so much there is play when you clamp the front brake and rock the bicycle back and forth.
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How do I overhaul my threaded headset?
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If you decide it is necessary to overhaul the headset, start by removing the stem. On a threadless headset, stem removal is accomplished by loosening the allen bolt or hexagonal bolt at the top of the stem. This closes the expander attached the bottom of the stem and makes it possible to work the stem out of the headset.
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Unscrew the locknut. This is the uppermost nut on the headset.
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Remove any washers below the locknut.
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Unscrew the bearing race. Doing so should free the fork from the frame.
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There will be a set of ball bearings in a retainer on the fork and another from under the bearing race.
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Clean the bearing and bearing retainers with a degreasing solution.
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Make sure bearing retainers are well-greased.
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If the bearings in the stock retainers are no longer spherical, you can replace them with loose bearings. These will probably be either 3/16” or 5/32” size.
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When you start to reassemble the headset, make sure you face the bearing retainers in the proper direction. You will notice the retainers have only one side where the bearings are exposed. The open side of a bearing retainer must always face the cone-shaped parts of the races, never the cup-shaped parts.
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Grease everything again: the bearing retainers, the bearing races, and the threads of the steerer column.
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Insert your fork (with the bearing retainer placed open side down on the fork) into the head tube.
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Place the bearing retainer into the upper race with open side up.
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Tighten the bearing race until there is no play in the fork, but not so much that free movement is impeded.
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Tighten the locknut while holding the bearing race stationary.
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Center the stem in relation to front wheel and tighten the bolt on top of the stem.
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