A threaded headset gets its name from the threaded steerer tube at the top of a fork. The steerer tube is attached to the inside head tube on a frame with an adjustable race. A threaded headset can be identified easily by the quill-type stem that fits inside the steerer tube. This article will discuss repairs and adjustments of a threaded headset.

If you hear a clicking noise, or notice a skip in the chain every few rotations of the pedals, you probably have a stiff chain link. This problem is most often located at the point where the chain was closed.

- Bike stands are a great investment for any level of bicycle mechanic
- You may need a chain breaker if the link cannot be loosened by hand

Keeping your chain clean is essential, especially if you ride in the rain or other adverse weather conditions. Regular chain maintenance prevents rust and chain stiffness.

There are two camps in the debate over chain lubrication: proponents of lubrication and its opponents. The opponents’ argument is based on the idea that chain lubricants attract grime. When this grime becomes stuck to the chain, the opponents of lubrication believe it causes increased chain wear.

The camp promoting chain lubrication believes lubricants allow for longer chain life and reduced friction. There is little evidence to settle this debate. For more information about lubricating your chain, read on.

If your bike has been sitting all winter, or if you just purchased a used bicycle, a tune-up is in order. This article will help identify the areas of your bike you need to attend to when performing a tune-up.

The best way to start a tune up is by cleaning your bicycle. This will help you to identify any areas of concern, and who knows – you might even get a chance to see what is under all that dirt. To clean your bike, use a degreaser and some old rags. A toothbrush is good for getting into the small crevices on your bike. Don’t just sponge your bike and hose it off. It’s not a dog!

A chain “stretches” through regular use. This does not mean the metal literally stretches, but over time the bushings between the plates of the chain wear down, and the chain becomes a little longer. “Stretch” is the main reason avid cyclists replace their chains, but if your chain is rusty or just plain ol’ grimy, it’s not a bad idea to replace it.

The rear derailleur is designed to move the chain up and down on the sprockets (or cogs) connected to your rear hub. Together these cogs are known as the rear cassette. By moving to a cog with fewer teeth, the derailleur gives the rider a faster (or higher) gear which is appropriate for flat areas or descents. By moving to a cog with more teeth, the derailleur offers a gear more appropriate for climbing hills (or a lower gear).