If you hear a clicking noise, or notice a skip in the chain every few rotations of the pedals, you probably have a stiff chain link. This problem is most often located at the point where the chain was closed.

- Bike stands are a great investment for any level of bicycle mechanic
- You may need a chain breaker if the link cannot be loosened by hand

A chain “stretches” through regular use. This does not mean the metal literally stretches, but over time the bushings between the plates of the chain wear down, and the chain becomes a little longer. “Stretch” is the main reason avid cyclists replace their chains, but if your chain is rusty or just plain ol’ grimy, it’s not a bad idea to replace it.

The easiest way to differentiate between a cantilever brake and its counterpart, the caliper brake, is to look where the brake is attached to the frame or fork of your bicycle. If the brake is attached by a single, centered bolt, you have a caliper brake. If the brake is attached at two points, you have a cantilever brake. This article will discuss adjustments of the cantilever brake.

If your cable housing is stiff, shows signs of damage, such as a kink, or is getting old, it may be a good idea to install replacements. Working on cable housings is not particularly difficult but does require the proper tools.

- Cable Cutters
- Wire Snips
- Awl or Similar Pointed Tool

Keeping your chain clean is essential, especially if you ride in the rain or other adverse weather conditions. Regular chain maintenance prevents rust and chain stiffness.

There are two camps in the debate over chain lubrication: proponents of lubrication and its opponents. The opponents’ argument is based on the idea that chain lubricants attract grime. When this grime becomes stuck to the chain, the opponents of lubrication believe it causes increased chain wear.

The camp promoting chain lubrication believes lubricants allow for longer chain life and reduced friction. There is little evidence to settle this debate. For more information about lubricating your chain, read on.

A threaded headset gets its name from the threaded steerer tube at the top of a fork. The steerer tube is attached to the inside head tube on a frame with an adjustable race. A threaded headset can be identified easily by the quill-type stem that fits inside the steerer tube. This article will discuss repairs and adjustments of a threaded headset.