The rear derailleur is designed to move the chain up and down on the sprockets (or cogs) connected to your rear hub. Together these cogs are known as the rear cassette. By moving to a cog with fewer teeth, the derailleur gives the rider a faster (or higher) gear which is appropriate for flat areas or descents. By moving to a cog with more teeth, the derailleur offers a gear more appropriate for climbing hills (or a lower gear).

A freewheel makes it possible to coast on a bike. When you are pedaling, the freewheel engages the sprockets, but it allows the rear wheel to turn when the pedals are at rest.

- A bicycle stand is always recommended
- A special tool designed specifically for your particular freewheel, known as a “freewheel puller”
- An adjustable wrench compatible with the hexagonal section of your freewheel puller
- You may need a bench-mounted vice for particularly stubborn freewheels

Before the advent of plastic-lined cables, it was necessary to regularly use heavy oil or grease to lubricate the cables inside brake and derailleur cable housings. Thanks to plastic-lined cables, this procedure is largely obsolete. There are however a few points on the modern bicycle that can use an occasional oiling. The small section of cable near the rear derailleur and the sharp bends in cantilever brakes are two points on the bicycle that merit some attention to lubrication.

The function of handlebar tape (or wrap) may be somewhat obvious. It provides a more reliable grip on the handlebars, increases comfort, and absorbs shock from the road.

If your handlebar tape is torn or excessively worn, it is probably time to change it out. Some cyclists simply change the wrap when it becomes unsightly. This procedure is relatively easy, but it may take a few attempts to get an even and aesthetically pleasing result.

If your wheel has side-to-side play even when the skewer or axle nuts are tight, or after a hub has seen its fair share of use, it is time to overhaul the bearings and adjust the hubs.

- Cone wrenches (usually 13mm for the front and 15mm for the rear)
- Open-ended wrench (usually 17mm)
- Plenty of grease
- Replacement bearings (usually twenty 3/16” bearings for the front, eighteen 1/4 “ bearings for the rear)

Keeping your chain clean is essential, especially if you ride in the rain or other adverse weather conditions. Regular chain maintenance prevents rust and chain stiffness.

There are two camps in the debate over chain lubrication: proponents of lubrication and its opponents. The opponents’ argument is based on the idea that chain lubricants attract grime. When this grime becomes stuck to the chain, the opponents of lubrication believe it causes increased chain wear.

The camp promoting chain lubrication believes lubricants allow for longer chain life and reduced friction. There is little evidence to settle this debate. For more information about lubricating your chain, read on.